How To Start a Flower Garden From Scratch (DIY Guide)

I recently moved into what I often refer to as my forever home, and I wanted a flower garden that would be the center of my little universe. It took a lot of time and sweat, and I experienced many highs and lows, but I finally have my magical outdoor space filled with colorful, fragrant flowers.

Here’s a DIY guide on how to start a flower garden from scratch:

  1. Explore the various flower themes.
  2. Decide between annual and perennial flowers.
  3. Use the color wheel to determine the color theme.
  4. Choose the ideal location for your flower garden.
  5. Design the garden.
  6. Analyze the type of soil, its pros, and its cons.
  7. Buy flower seedlings from a reputable nursery.
  8. Mulch your garden.
  9. Water your flowers regularly.

Flowers, just like vegetables, are sensitive to the soil, climate, and the care they receive. This guide will explain why it’s important to plan every detail of your flower garden and how to make it uniquely yours.

1. Explore the Various Flower Themes

Looking at flower themes may appear a little premature, especially since you are yet to determine where you’ll set up the garden. Sometimes, the flower themes will help you choose the ideal spot for your garden.

Consider the height, shape, and spread of the flowers. Your flower garden is meant to complement the rest of your landscape, so it needs to enhance the appeal of your environment.

You can have a magnificent flower garden. However, if you get the theme wrong, it will be a great garden in the wrong location.

For example, you need to know the height of the flowers at maturity. Will the flowers survive if your area gets a little windy sometimes, or will the stems break?

Have a list of must-have flowers in your garden and how they’ll fit with the theme you seek. Do you want to create a rhythm of flowers with similar flower shapes, or do you want a mix of every flower you like?

How will the flowers stand out against the nearby foliage? If the flowers have thick foliage, you will need to consider the maintenance cost. If it looks a little too much, you can still keep the list of flowers you wish to have until you choose the ideal location for your garden.

When coming up with a theme, there will be a lot of giving and taking. You may need to give up on some flowers you want because they’re unsuitable for your garden. At the same time, you may be forced to include some flowers that will add some depth and beauty to your flower garden.

2. Decide Between Annual and Perennial Flowers

The process of choosing flowers to plant will take up most of your time because they will:

  • Determine where you will place the garden.
  • Dictate how you will design the garden.
  • Influence the amount of work you’ll need to put in when maintaining your garden.
  • Have an impact on the overall appearance of your property.

Therefore, you’ll have to decide whether to plant perennials or annuals and you may also choose to plant both!

This YouTube video is a great guide on annuals and perennials. It also gives examples of both types of flowers to help you choose those most suitable for your flower garden:

Annual Flowering Plants

Annual flowering plants (commonly referred to as annuals), germinate, grow, bloom, set seed, and die in one growing season. When the winter season sets in, it marks the end of the growing season for annuals. Fortunately, once they bloom, you’ll have the flowers in your garden for the entire season.

You’ll need to plant fresh flowers every growing season if you opt for annuals. Annuals are often favored for their colorful blooms, which last a long time. Some annuals don’t flower but have striking foliage that adds an aesthetic appeal to the flower garden.

Annual flowering plants are in three categories:

  • Hardy annuals. These annuals do well under cool weather and can withstand freezing temperatures. Examples are larkspur, love-in-a-mist, and bachelor’s buttons. These are easy to grow, and the seeds can be sown directly in the garden. You can plant hardy annuals in the fall.
  • Half-hardy annuals. These flowers adapt to cool climates but can only survive in light frost (28°F/-2.22°C). These flowers have adapted to cool climates and remain active in the summer. If there’s a sudden frost in spring, you’ll have to cover the plants to protect them. Cosmos, Tagetes, Ricinus, and Zinnia are examples of semi-hardy annuals.
  • Tender annuals. These thrive in warm temperatures (55°F/12.78°C and higher). When exposed to low temperatures (below 32°F/0°C), they die. Examples are geraniums, verbena, coleus, and impatiens. You should only plant tender annuals in late spring. Tender annuals are sometimes referred to as perennials used as annuals. You can save the cuttings in the fall to preserve them for the next growing season.

I’ll go over some popular annual flowering plants below.


When choosing petunias, you’ll come across various varieties. The compact, spreading, and trailing varieties have different bloom sizes, colors, growth habits, and petal profiles. The compact variety has dime-size blooms, while the trailing petunias can grow up to 4ft (1.2m).

However, the new-generation seeds have been the game-changer. They have lured more people to plant petunias because they’re studier, easier to grow, and produce blooms all summer.

Petunias are in four main categories:

  • Grandifloras: produce the largest flowers.
  • Multiflora petunias: produce many flowers but are smaller than those of the Grandifloras.
  • Milliflora (miniature petunias): smaller and have very small flowers.
  • Wave petunias: grow quickly and easily take over the garden because of how fast they spread across a large area.

Growing wave petunias in pots is best if you intend to have a small garden and wish to control the petunias.

Sun or shade?
  • Full sun (at least 6 hours a day)
Bloom time
  • All summer
Flower Characteristics
  • Available in multiple colors, striped, speckled, and vein patterns.
  • Dime-sized to palm-size flowers.
  • Single or double blooms.
  • Smooth, ruffled, or fringed edges.
Best time to plant
  • Spring
Soil Conditions
  • Light, fertile soil with good drainage.
  • pH 6 – 6.5 (slightly acidic)
  • Add plenty of organic compost in clay soil before planting.
  • They have shallow roots, so they need regular watering.
  • Avoid getting the soil soggy because the roots may rot. Yellowing leaves are a sign of overwatering.
  • Add liquid fertilizer once a month for continuous blooms all summer.
  • Alternatively, add slow-release fertilizer when planting.
Pruning and deadheading
  • Grandifloras need more pruning and deadheading to keep them from going into seed.
  • Wave petunias don’t need pruning but cut off dead flower heads to increase blooms and make the plant fuller.
  • Cut back when blooms reduce or when they get leggy to encourage more growth.
Pests and diseases
  • Aphids, mites, budworms, caterpillars, thrips, and powdery mildew.
Growing from seed
  • Start indoors 8 – 10 weeks before the last frost.
  • Transfer seedlings to the flower garden in spring when the soil warms up.
Basic Information For Growing Petunias. 


Verbena flower blooms thrive in summer despite the heat. When buying these flowers, you’ll discover annual verbena and perennial verbena. If you don’t have time to water and tend to your garden (or if you have harsh summers), consider planting annual verbenas. However, if you experience high humidity in summer, your best bet is the perennial verbena.

There are three main types of Verbena:

  • Superbena® series. These are robust, resilient, and mildew resistant compared to older varieties. They produce large, multicolored flowers, which sometimes have bicolored striped patterns.
  • Tapien® series. A trailing verbena can spread up to 3ft (0.91m). It can easily overwhelm the other flowers if you plant too many. However, the carpet of blooms makes up for the multi-branching growth pattern. It’s mildew resistant and can grow in a range of weather conditions.
  • Lanai® series. This variety has a little bit of the Tapien and Superbena varieties. For example, it trails but grows up to 2ft (0.61m) long. However, instead of small blooms, it produces large ones. It has long blooming seasons and has flowers in various colors and patterns.
Sun or Shade?
  • Full sun (At Least 8 hours a day)
  • Winter hardy Zones 8 – 11 for perennials. Annuals grow in almost all climates.
Bloom Season
  • May – October
Soil Conditions
  • Well-drained soil.
Flower Characteristics
  • Common in shades of red, pink, purple, blue, coral, and bi-colored.
  • Saucer-shaped, up to 3 inches (7.62cm) wide.
  • Fragrant and attracts bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
Best time to plant
  • Mid-spring
Growing from seed
  • Indoors 8 – 10 weeks to the last frost date.
  • Transplant seedlings outdoors when the soil gets warmer.
  • Water regularly until roots are established.
  • Avoid overwatering because verbenas are naturally drought tolerant.
  • When planting, enrich the soil with continuous release fertilizer, water-soluble fertilizer or compost.
Pruning and deadheading
  • They don’t need deadheading. However, prune the trailing varieties to keep them from overwhelming other plants.
Basic Information On Growing Verbena Annual Flowers.


Geraniums (Pelargoniums) are abundant bloomers that grow in most zones. However, in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, they’re considered perennials. They bloom from summer to fall.

Geraniums are in six main categories:

  • Zonal Geraniums. These geraniums are the backbone of most summer gardens. They have succulent stems with pronounced dark leaves and flowers that grow in single, semi-double, or double clusters. They grow to 24 inches (60.96cm) tall, but the miniature varieties grow to 5 – 8 inches (12.7cm – 20.32cm). They bloom in orange, red, pink, purple, white, and yellow shades.
  • Ivy Geranium. These trail to about 48 inches (1.2m). They have pointed leaves similar to ivy (Hedera spp.) plants. Unlike zonal geraniums, which have dark leaves, ivy geraniums have bright, glossy leaves that are 3 inches (7.62cm) long. They grow in clusters of single and double blooms in pink, red, purple, mauve, and white shades.
  • Interspecific Geraniums. These are a hybrid variety that combines the best features of ivy and zonal geraniums. Interspecific geraniums have large flowers, similar to zonal geraniums. However, they also have trailing capabilities, like ivy geraniums. They’re heat tolerant and have abundant blooms. 
  • Martha Washington or Regal geraniums. These have mid-green leaves that are rounded, lobed, and sometimes partially toothed leaves. They grow to 12 – 48 inches (30.48cm – 121.92cm) in height, and produce large blooms in clusters of red, orange, white, reddish-black, pink, or purple hues. 
  • Scented-leaved Geraniums. As the name suggests, the leaves of these geraniums have a strong fragrance, which they emit when crushed or lightly bruised. They are the most popular of all annual geraniums. There are over 140 species under this variety, all producing a range of scents, and the lemon-scented variety works as a mosquito repellent. The clustered blooms come in mauve, pink, white, and purple shades. 
  • Angel geraniums. These geraniums are a cross of P. crispum and regal geranium. Its flowers have striking shades and patterns of purple, pink, white, and mauve. They have mid-green leaves that are sometimes rounded, crinkled, and scented. These geraniums are quite bushy, growing to 9 – 36 inches ( 22.86cm – 91.44cm).
  • Winter hardy in zones 10 – 11.
  • Annual flowering plant in other zones
Height/ spread
  • Most varieties grow to 2 – 4 ft (60.96cm – 121.92cm)
  • Miniature varieties grow to 5 – 8 inches (12.7cm – 20.32cm)
  • Ivy varieties spread to 6 – 48 inches (15.24cm – 121.92cm)
  • Full sun (6 hours a day)
  • Regal and zonal varieties prefer partial shade, preferably in the afternoon.
Bloom period
  • Spring – Fall
  • In rare instances, blooms last through winter to spring.

  • Red, pink, purple, mauve, reddish-black, orange, and white.
Growing from seed
  • Indoors 10 weeks to the last frost.
  • Transplant in spring.
  • Fertile, well-drained
Basic Information on growing and caring for geraniums

Other annuals that you should consider growing are Marigold, Zinnia, Begonias, Coleus, Impatiens, Angelonia, and Ageratum.

Pros And Cons Of Planting Annuals

They’re easy to grow.You have to plant new flowers from scratch every year.
Bright colored flowers improve the garden instantly.Most need deadheading to continue blooming.
They bloom the entire growing season.They need fertilizers to keep blooming.
They can be grown in the garden, containers or hanging baskets.Daily watering is necessary in summer.
Flowers are in a range of bright colors, including orange, red, pink, white, coral, yellow, and blue.
They’re low maintenance.
Hardy for different situations, like the sun and shade.
Pros and cons of annuals

Tips For Planting Annuals

These tips are a great guide if you wish to have some annuals in your flower garden:

  • Give young annuals sufficient space to allow them to grow to their full size.
  • Choose a spot with sufficient light.
  • Use slow-release fertilizer when planting.
  • Only plant when the frost has passed.
  • If you transplant from a container to the garden, ensure you loosen the roots by hand or with a knife.
  • Don’t leave the seeds in the six-packs or flats for too long. Plant them in the garden or containers quickly.
  • Start watering the plants as soon as you plant them. Mulch to reduce water loss and prevent weeds from invading your garden.

Perennial Flowering Plants

Perennials are a great investment if you don’t want to keep planting flowers every year, as they’ll keep coming back. Unlike the annuals, which bloom quickly and over a long period, perennials take longer to bloom, and when they do, they do it for a short period (usually a few weeks).

Perennial flowers also take a few years to establish. So, if the blooms are not impressive in the first year or two, don’t worry. Perennials return bigger and better when the root system is well established.

Since they come back every year, you need to ensure you choose perennials that can withstand the winter season in your area. Ensure you read the label to confirm the USDA hardiness zone when buying seeds. If your zone isn’t listed, it’s best to look for an alternative variety specially made for your zone.

Perennials are also quite sensitive to the sun and shade. You need to set up your garden based on the flowers’ needs. For example, if the perennial needs full sun, you need to ensure your garden gets at least six hours of sun every day. If it’s shaded, the perennial is likely to stall and eventually die because the conditions are unsuitable.

I’ll go over some popular perennials below.

Black-eyed Susan

The black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta L.) is in the Aster family. Although it’s a perennial, it’s sometimes considered an annual, often replanted every year, because it only lasts two years (biennial). However, it retains its status as a short-lived perennial because it survives winter and regrows in the second season.

This perennial has a bright yellow, daisy-like flower with a dark center. It typically grows 2-3 inches (5.08cm – 7.62cm) tall, while the flower emerges on stems that are 1-2 inches (1.54cm – 5.08cm) tall. The stems are scattered, while the oval leaves are covered with bristly hairs.

It grows as a wildflower in the midwest.

  • Full sun (at least 6 hours a day)
USDA Zone hardiness
  • 3 – 7
Bloom season
  • Summer
  • Moist and well-drained
  • pH 6.8 slightly acidic
  • Daily until well-established.
  • It will be drought resistant in the second growing season.
Temperature & humidity
  • 60°F (15.5°C) or higher.
  • Drought and humidity tolerant.
  • Doesn’t need fertilizer.
  • Grows well in poor soil. Compost dressing is sufficient.
Pruning and deadheading
  • Deadheading extends their blooms but is not necessary.
  • Prune to 2 inches (5.08cm) above the ground after the flowering season.
Growing from seed
  • Indoors 6- 8 weeks to the date of the last frost.
  • Transplant in spring when soil temperature rises.
  • Seed directly in your flower garden in spring.
  • Powdery mildew in humid conditions.

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia spp.)

The blanket flower grows easily and has colorful daisy-like flowers. They grow to 24 inches (60.96cm) and have a 20-inch (50.8cm) spread. Blanket flowers bloom in the second year when grown from seed, while seedlings bloom within the first growing season. It has red and yellow blooms throughout summer.

  • Full sun (at least 6 hour exposure)
  • Poor, well-drained
  • Slightly acidic pH 6.1 – 6.5
Bloom season
  • Summer to fall (repeat bloomer)
Flower color
  • Shades of orange, red, yellow, and peach.
USDA Zone hardiness
  • 3 – 10 (choose a variety suitable for your zone)
  • Slightly toxic
  • Water deeply until established. Soil should be moist, not soggy.
  • Drought resistant. Once established, water once a week.
  • Mulch heavily during winter
  • Avoid fertilizer. Blooms more in poor soils than enriched soils.
Pruning and deadheading
  • Prune when flowers start to die.
  • Deadheading is not necessary, but it does encourage more blooms.

Veronica Perennials (Speedwell)

Veronica Perennials have spires, making it the ideal flower to plant together with other perennials. There are at least 250 species with blooms of different sizes and colors.

The varieties of Veronica perennials are:

  • Christy Veronica. Ideal for zones 6-8. It blooms in late spring and forms a mat of rich blue flowers. It occasionally re-blooms all season.
  • Georgia Blue Veronica. At maturity, it’s 12 inches (30.48cm) tall.
  • Giles Van Hees Veronica. Great for zones 4-8. It has dense, bright pink flower spikes that bloom in the summer. This Veronica variety grows to about 6 inches (15.24cm).
  • Crater Lake Blue Veronica. Best for zones 6-8. It blooms from spring to summer and has deep blue flowers on 18-inch (45.72cm) tall plants. It forms large mats of spiky purple-tinged foliage and small, saucer-shaped flowers.
  • Icicle Veronica. This variety produces white flowers on spikes. They’re ideal for zone 3 – 8 and grow to 2 feet (60.96cm).
  • Full sun (6 hours)
USDA Hardiness Zones
  • 3 – 11 depending on the variety.
  • 6 – 24 inches (15.24cm – 60.96cm) tall.
Flower color
  • White, purple, pink, and blue.
Foliage color
  • Blue/green
Bloom seasons
  • Spring, summer and fall.
  • Deer and drought cover.
  • Provides ground cover.
  • Attracts bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
  • Low maintenance
  • Clay, loam, sand, and high organic matter.
  • pH 6.0 – 8.0 (acidic to alkaline ) depending on the variety.
Ideal spot
  • Border flowers or grow in small groups.

Other perennials you should consider for your garden include the hibiscus, hemerocallis (Daylily), hosta, ornamental grass, allium, rose, and lavender.

This YouTube video offers a comprehensive list of perennials that you should have in your garden:

Tips for Planting Perennials

You can plant annuals and perennials in your flower garden. However, you need to ensure you follow the care of perennials. These tips will help you have lush, flowering perennials for years:

  • Ensure the soil pH is 6.2 – 7.0. Most perennials thrive in slightly acidic to neutral pH soils.
  • Plan where to plant perennials based on their height at maturity. Ensure tall plants go to the back.
  • Use compost to improve soil fertility instead of commercial fertilizer. Most perennials thrive without fertilizer.
  • Ensure the hole is twice the size of the container holding the seedling.
  • Dig wider holes to allow the roots to grow outwards.
  • Lightly loosen the roots before planting seedlings.
  • Ensure you don’t bury the crown (the area where the root meets the stem). Flowers suffocate when the crown is covered.
  • Water deeply to saturate the roots during summer. Monitor the soil moisture to determine when next to water your perennials.

3. Use the Color Wheel To Determine the Color Theme

Choosing the flowers to plant is just the first step in planning your flower garden. You now have to look at the color theme you wish to have before determining which of the flowers you are considering ideal.

The color wheel is great if you want your flowers to follow a specific theme. It creates some sort of order and helps you to determine where to place your plants. However, if you don’t mind having a mix of colorful blooms, then you need not worry about the color theme.

Here’s what you should know about the color wheel:

  • The color wheel has six main colors. Red, blue and yellow (primary colors), and orange, violet, and green (secondary colors).
  • There are countless tertiary colors in the gaps between the six colors. This includes yellowish-green, bluish-purple, and orangey-red.
  • On the left of the wheel are warm-colored flowers. They brighten a shaded or dull corner and make the garden appear lively. Warm-colored flowers are great for formal flower gardens, outlining the lawn’s edge and highlighting a focal point. Warm colors include red, orange, and yellow.
  • Cool colors are on the right side of the wheel. They’re represented by green, blue, and violet hues. They’re calming, are great for the sunny side of the garden, and they make the garden appear larger and blend well with the surrounding foliage. Mix with warm-colored flowers to soften the intensity of bright-colored flowers.
  • Use analogous colors. These are next to one another on the color wheel. For example, yellow and green, blue and violet, red and orange, or yellow and orange. These flowers have a harmonious effect and look great when planted together.
  • Choose flowers with complementary colors. These are directly opposite each other on the wheel. Examples are green and red, yellow and violet, and blue and orange. Plant these flowers together if you want the colors to “pop”.
  • Create a monochromatic theme. You can choose to plant a flower garden made up of flowers with variations of the same color. For example, you may choose plants with pink, rose, crimson, fuschia, or magenta-colored flowers if you want a garden with hues of red.

A creative color wheel is handy if you need help mixing the flowers. It defines common terms and guides in color interactions and is portable. Therefore, it’s excellent if you’re new to flower gardening and you’re exploring flower color combinations.

4. Choose the Ideal Location for Your Flower Garden

Your garden’s location will determine if the flowers you want to plant are ideal or not. In some cases, you may not choose where to place your garden, especially if you already have a lawn and other structures on the property. If this is the case, you should choose flowers based on the sun exposure, shade, and soil type.

However, if you have greater flexibility in deciding the ideal spot for your flower garden, you need to consider the following:

  • Accessibility to a water source. You’ll need access to a water source to ensure your flowers get the water they need.
  • How much sun the potential garden space receives. Does it get full sun (6 hours or more), partial sun (3 – 6 hours), full shade (more than 3 hours), or partial shade (3 hours)? When plants need full sun but are planted under the shade, they’ll become leggy.
  • The type of soil. When it rains, does water sit on the soil for long? If the flowers you want to plant need well-drained soil, you need to ensure that you choose the ideal location.
  • The purpose of the flower garden. Is it to draw attention to a centerpiece, such as a fountain, or do you want it to be the centerpiece of your property?
  • Buried utility lines. You don’t want to interfere with these.

Once you have the perfect spot for your flower garden, you’re ready to start designing the garden.

5. Design the Garden

When preparing a garden, you need a design with the greatest impact. It could be based on the size of the garden or the way you plant the flowers. Here are tips to help you develop the best flower garden design:

  • Start small and keep expanding to avoid being overwhelmed.
  • Use a garden hose to create the garden’s shape before you start digging. Keep making changes until you find a good design. Depending on your preference, you may decide to use one shape or a collection of shapes.
  • Walk around the proposed garden design and see if you can easily access the plants in the middle. If not, consider creating a path.
  • Determine where you will place the plants based on plant size at maturity, bloom colors, bloom period, and flower sizes. You should also consider if the flowers will attract pollinators, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
  • If the garden is at the front of your house, place tall flowers at the back but ensure they do not grow to a height that covers the windows. The tallest flowers should be in the middle if the flower garden is an island.
  • Consider how wide the plants spread to ensure they do not crowd other flowers. If the flowers you wish to plant spread far, it’s best to have a wider garden or only plant a few of these types of flowers.
  • Plant a mix of flowers that bloom in the summer, spring and fall to ensure you have a colorful garden all year long.
  • Use the power of repetition to make your garden appear more organized. For example, pick some flowers that you can plant in clusters in different parts of the garden. Go for an odd number. For example, repeat planting the same flowers three or five times instead of an even number. Groupings of odd numbers are more appealing and draw attention to the flower arrangement.
  • Have a focal point in your garden. You may consider having a piece of art, a mass of a single type of flowers at the center, or a cluster of flowering shrubs.
  • Start clearing the garden space of weeds, grass, and other debris once you visualize where the different plants will go.
  • Add pavers or other materials to serve as an edge for your garden.

6. Analyze The Type Of Soil, Its Pros, And Its Cons

As you dig out your garden, you need to pay attention to the soil. What type is it? Remember the flowers you intend to plant. For example, if it’s clay soil, you’ll have drainage issues. Fortunately, you can add compost to the soil to improve drainage and fertility.

Test the soil pH and take measures to ensure it’s ideal for your flowers. Most flowers thrive in slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.1 – 6.8.

If the soil is alkaline, you can add:

  • Sulfur.
  • Iron sulfate.
  • Sphagnum peat moss.
  • Ammonium sulfate.
  • Acidic fertilizer.

If you find the soil is too acidic (pH is lower than required), you can add lime to help reduce the acidity. Use small amounts of lime and keep testing the soil pH. When you use too much lime, you risk making the soil too alkaline.

If your collection of flowers prefers soil with different pH levels, you don’t need to amend the soil. Compost is enough to create a balance. However, if some plants prefer more soil acidity, you can use acidic fertilizer on the specific plants.

Try to plant plants with similar demands, especially soil preference.

7. Buy Flower Seedlings From a Reputable Nursery

Flowers from a reputable nursery have a better chance of survival. Popular nurseries are favorable because they have a high flower turnover. Plants that have been in storage for a long time may not be healthy and are likely to suffer transplant shock.

It’s essential that you check all of the plants you buy, even if you got them from a trusted source. Take a good look at the leaves, as you should avoid buying flowers with sticky, wilted, or holey leaves.

If possible, tilt the pot to check the roots. If the roots appear to be going around the pot, they’re root-bound. It’s always ideal to avoid flowers that are root-bound, as they take longer to establish. 

However, if you have no option, you can take them. But, ensure you loosen the roots and cut off dead or damaged roots.

You also need to find out where the plants are stored. If they were indoors in a cold warehouse, you need to introduce the plants slowly to the outdoors. Take the plants outside during the day, and take them indoors at night for about a week. You can now plant the flowers and maintain the recommended care until they’re established.

8. Mulch Your Garden

Mulch has multiple benefits in your flower garden. You should plan to mulch your garden whenever possible for the following reasons:

  • Weed control.
  • Control evaporation during summer.
  • Prevents the soil from forming a hard crust which makes water absorption difficult.
  • Keeps the soil cool during summer.
  • Insulates roots of perennials during winter.
  • Protects the roots against temperature fluctuations.
  • Decomposes and leaches nutrients into the soil.
  • Improves the soil’s organic structure.
  • Improves the appearance of the flower garden.

Remember to edge your garden to keep the mulch within the garden, and keep adding fresh mulch whenever necessary. Over time, the old mulch will decompose and reduce your dependence on fertilizer.

9. Water Your Flowers Regularly

One of the reasons you need to put up a garden close to a water source is because your flowers need to be watered regularly. Newly-planted flowers need to be watered daily until they’re established. You can then start watering every other day or if the soil is dry.

During the first few weeks, you must ensure the flowers get a thorough watering to establish fuller and longer roots. When using a hose, get an attachment with a fine spray pattern. You don’t want the water pressure to damage the petals, leaves, or new buds.


Undoubtedly, when preparing a flower garden, flower selection will take most of your time. You may use the garden spot as a guide when choosing the flowers or let the flowers influence the garden’s location. Fortunately, there’s a range of flowers that will suit your preference and, at the same time, fit the space you have chosen for your garden.

Alexander Picot

Alexander Picot is the principal creator of, a website dedicated to gardening tips. Inspired by his mother’s love of gardening, Alex has a passion for taking care of plants and turning backyards into feel-good places and loves to share his experience with the rest of the world.

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